Gastroms look beyond the epidemic to the French dining revolution


Chef Yannick Alano served a 39 395 menu featuring Langostine and Faye Grass at his three-star Michelin restaurant near Champs-Elyses.

As France prepares to allow restaurants to launch outside services next week after a six-month shutdown, it will instead offer burgers at its wine bar for a fraction of the price.

A superstar chef like Aleno, who has more than a dozen Michelin stars in high-end restaurants from Kachchil to Marrakesh, is facing problems in France as a result of a change of strategy Great restaurants Since they want to get rid of the damage caused by the coronavirus epidemic.

“We need to arouse the curiosity of our people and inspire them to come here,” he said of Pavilion Ledoyen, a neographical building that houses several restaurants, including the three-star Aleno Paris.

Such temples in French gastronomy have long attracted wealthy foreign tourists who, as experienced, will feed more than € 1000 on a two-time starvation diet. Living French art. However, with international travel severely reduced by the epidemic, such national customers are not expected to return for some time.

Yannick Alano operates high-end restaurants from Paris to Corkville and Marrakech, bringing together dozens of Michelin stars, Franোois Durand / Getty

Attracting locals is a new challenge, as well as retaining employees, many of whom have left the sector and have an infamous working situation. Many restaurants are also cutting large debts after taking out state-guaranteed loans to overcome the crisis.

“My three-year fight is ahead,” Aleno said, adding that অর্ 4 million had been spent on half the group’s cash reserves. “For three-star restaurants, there will be a lot of losses.”

His flagship restaurant earned more than a quarter from foreign diners, mostly from Asia and the United States. Without these, the door will remain closed until September, as there is little point in reopening. Alano will now test in a less-formal place while plotting an overhaul that he now wants to pull off fine-dining in the 21st century.

“Everything needs to change,” he said, quoting the title of the book he co-wrote during the lockdown. In it he called for rebuilding everything from service style (warmer, more personalized) stuffing (more flexible and family-friendly).

French Upper gastronomy Auguste traces its roots to nineteenth-century visionary chefs like Escofier and Marie-Antoine Carm, who created a cuisine based on rich sauce and rhythmic – often theatrical – service. For decades it was considered the best in the world and has become a key part of the French identity.

In recent decades, however, its popularity has waned, first in the flash of molecular gastronomy and then in paired back Nordic-style competition. As in French HAUTE COOKING Lost land, it becomes much more expensive, it keeps out of reach of many.

“The epidemic has revealed that the business model of France’s high-end restaurants does not work without tourists alone,” said J্rg Ziprick, co-founder of La List Group, one of the world’s best restaurants.

“This is a relatively new development. It used to be that. . . No local doctor or manager would come to this place to celebrate a special occasion. No more. “

Zipprik said that for top chefs, many of whom were spent experimentally with takeouts and food kits last year, success depends on their willingness to adapt.

A customer took his order from Baita in Paris

Baita Restaurant in Paris. Many top chefs have experimented with takeouts and food kits in the past year Frank Fif / Getty

He predicted that diners would not want bizarre and experimental food when they returned, but would instead want to eat good food at a good restaurant with friends and family.

“The waiter needs a long explanation about the fermentation process for any other technical thing or food. People don’t want their food to become a work of art, ”Zipprick said.

The last time French chefs invented it was in 1770, when chefs like Paul Bosus and the Tricegros brothers made it. New kitchen. The movement is less pleasant and caloric, fresh and high-quality ingredients are brought to the fore than the ongoing fine-dining before, and the service becomes less formal.

Aleno believes that top restaurants must be targeted based on experience by talking to clients in advance about their dinners, guests and events related to their tastes.

This “broker service” approach allows menus to be better planned, improving the customer experience and the economy of the restaurant.

“If I found out that there are only three people who would eat Langostine on a particular night, I wouldn’t have to order just six kilos in my case,” he said. “It really changes things in the kitchen.”

Others are becoming more radical. The three-star Eleven Madison Park in New York’s Daniel Hum will not serve meat and seafood when it reopens next month, as Swiss chefs have shown that sustainable and environmentally conscious eating habits can be compatible with delays.

However, behind the five-star Le Bristol Paris Hotel restaurant Apex, three-Michelin-starred chef Arich Frachon played the anticipation of radical change.

“The situation will return to the way it was before,” Frachan said, noting that the hotel’s restaurants have a significant base of local clients. “People have missed the experience Upper gastronomy So many days they will be anxious to come back.

Frachan said he would maintain some coronavirus-era novelty with a ৩ 1,390 “gastronomy and bed” package that has been marketed as a one-night fix for locals, including dinner in their suite or hotel room.

“On New Year’s Eve 60 of our servers were running in the back room,” it was really hard. “But it has allowed us to reach new clients who probably didn’t dare come to any three-star restaurant. Now we have to keep them. ”

Domitil Aline Additional Report in Paris



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