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Nothing feels more elegant in jewelry at the moment than a long, slender earring that runs almost to the collarbone. It is a sluggish approach to glamor and dress that suits the time we are in. The time is, of course, 100 years after an era known for its elongated silhouette. “The 1920s defined the long earring,” says vintage jewelry retailer Jennifer Gibson, whose collections are held in Selfridges and Fenwick. ‘The flappers inverted that hourglass shape of the Victorian and Edwardian periods. The length of the skirts increased and there was the whole sleek, long dress style in the column. The hair is typically tapped – even above the jaw – and this has left this extension between the cheekbone and the chest. Earrings are therefore lengthened and draw attention to the cleavage. ”
Today, short hair, long hair, no hair – it does not matter. A long, slender earring enhances every look. And luxury fashion houses are definitely the idea. At Saint Laurent, long crystal strings with heavily embellished choker necklaces over colorful bouclé jackets wore an 80s thrill to Anthony Vaccarello’s vintage meets-rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere for the season. The French house also offers a single-thread earring in a gold, rose gold or silver color, with a small monogram charm hanging under the lobe. On Givenchy’s show, if the models weren’t stuck in hoods and balaclavas, they wore a single long earring, the asymmetry giving a casual expression, which spoke of not trying too hard to be fantastic- while absolutely watching it.
Paco Rabanne uses his distinctive chain post on elegant long earrings, reminiscent of the paired construction of his 1969 Nano bag in gold and silver tinted aluminum. The 10 cm drop brushes the shoulder. Hermès also plays on household signatures in classic trans-season pieces, with the clock -the leather case that holds the keys to his Kelly and Birkin pockets – in rose gold earrings, just like a precious, fashionable Monopoly piece.
Long strings were also central to heritage jewelery houses. Graff, inspired by Cy Twombly, has earrings of meandering white gold with diamonds; while Tiffany’s Elongated Wire Rod Earrings forms a dramatic, diamond-laden capital T.
“There’s an appetite to dress up, and customers want fun again,” says Eleanor Robinson, director of accessories at Selfridges. “I think there’s something about these earrings that feels rather decadent.” She points to the British brand Completed works, with a series of statements: the earrings from Running For The Hills are two strings of freshwater pearls that are uneven, that rotate around each other and fall under the jaw. For a more relaxed feel, check out the Cape Ethical Jewelry Brand Pichulik and his Aisa earrings in nude or black rope, available at the UK retailer Stock market.
Danish brand for round jewelry Kinraden recently launched a collection of coupled designs of various lengths in a blend of 18-carat recycled gold and sterling silver. They are based on a Japanese woodcarving technique without the use of external connections or elements. The links fit neatly together and produce gentle movement when worn on the body.
Fellow Danish jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe has elongated drop styles in diamonds and pearls that match the dazzling minimalist. The Georgia Grande is an 18-carat gold chain design with paved diamond set, while the single Sandro Nuit – one of Bille Brahe’s favorites – achieves a total of 1.69 carat diamond. “I really like the way it hangs with a fluid curve, like the smooth silhouette of a wave.”