Wed. Oct 27th, 2021


Style updates

HTSI Editor Jo Ellison

HTSI Editor Jo Ellison © Marili Andre

I first met Sinéad Burke, this week’s Esthete, many years ago in a parking lot at the Galway Arts Festival. She was then a primary school teacher and the author of a style blog called Minnie Mélange, and in a brief conversation it was clear that she has a rare insight into the fashion industry and the power of clothing to project things about who we think we are. is. As an advocate for people, just like herself, with a disability, she had a keen understanding of how far access to the world she loved was barred.

In the years since the first meeting, I have seen Sinéad regularly. She had long since dropped the Minnie name to work under her own name as an advocate for accessibility and speaker, and occupied in the middle of the fashion world. She becomes the first little person to attend the Met Gala Ball in 2019; she sits on the advisory board of Chime For Change, the campaign that promotes gender equality, founded by Gucci. She gave A Ted Talk, written a children’s book, worked with the Duchess of Sussex and spent time with presidents.

Which begs the question: why does fashion matter at all for a woman who can pursue a career in politics or elsewhere on the global stage? Her reason for staying with the exclusive world of luxury is simple. If you find ways to encourage accessibility and demonstrate the value of community with disabilities in an industry that is inaccessible, you can achieve success and change any industry anywhere.

Sinéad’s story is inspiring, but it is also a story that began with a universal obsession. She wanted to find clothes and shoes that fit her, look good and are comfortable to wear. In recent months, her campaign for inclusivity has become louder and stronger, and her voice is just one of a large chorus of people now advocating change. Many of the voices are also heard in the article by Alexander Fury “Meet the unsung stars of American fashion”, which shows an alternative path in the history of American fashion to celebrate some of its lesser known names. The Met Museum’s upcoming In America: A Lexicon of Fashion is a topic we can quickly chew on – we all think we understand the essence of American style. But, as Alex points out, just behind the American brand we know by first name are a myriad of other design names — Stephen Burrows, Patrick Kelly, Isaac Mizrahi, and Andre Walker — all of which have helped our understanding of the shameless. , utilitarian spirit that adds to its design signatures, and whose influence is only now becoming clearer.

The late Patrick Kelly with his models in Paris, 1987

The late Patrick Kelly with his models in Paris, 1987 © Julio Donoso / Sygma / Getty Images

The cowboy boot on the treadmill at Isabel Marant

The cowboy boot on the treadmill at Isabel Marant

Would I wear a cowboy boot? This is a topic I periodically ask myself, generally after a show season in which an increase in Cuban heels and stitching gripped us again. This season the boots were again very proven and so disturbingly compelling that I asked Derek Blasberg for a decision on whether a non-Texan native can really pick up a pair. A proud son of St. Louis, Missouri – and so committed to the cause of cowboy fashion, that he made it the theme of his 30th birthday on the family farm – Blasberg is a proponent of cowboy boots in every neighborhood, and in his first piece for HTSI he offers an indifferent yeehaw for the trend (“Can you take off the cowboy boot?”). I’m meanwhile getting some Isabel Marant shoes about the virtual shopping cart. Because of this season of Americana, I might as well just buy a Western shirt.

@ jellison22

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