Tue. Jan 18th, 2022


In what may be jewelry’s “bare-face makeup” moment, women are looking for cleaner, lighter, more refined expressions of beauty to wear every day – and everywhere. Forget about looking for a safe place to store your accessories between that great offer and Pilates: the “new delicacy” is weakening. These minimal pieces do not need to be removed before you practice. They are designed to be one with the body – just the right kind of delicate they go where you go.

“A quieter style of jewelry has emerged – it’s an intimate, discreet aesthetic that is for every day, and that lasts longer,” says Mie Ejdrup, co-founder of fine jewelry platform Find math. “It makes perfect provision for all the women who are looking for beautiful, life-long pieces that they can wear almost like a second skin – a uniform that they never take off.

Cerys wears, from above, Delfina Delettrez responsibly sourced gold, diamond and pearl Unchain My Art single earring, € 580, and white gold and diamond 1987 cufflinks, € 1,000. Dior Joaillerie white gold and diamond Mimirose necklace, £ 1,830. Mateo gold , turquoise and diamond Dot necklace, $ 375, and gold and diamond Mini Pavé Square necklace, $ 450.  Repossi white gold and diamond Serti sur Vide pendant necklace, £ 3,830. Tiffany & Co gold T Smile pendant necklace, £ 1,075
Cerys wears, from above, Delfina Delettrez responsibly sourced gold, diamond and pearl Unchain My Art single earring, € 580, and white gold and diamond 1987 cufflinks, € 1,000. Dior Joaillerie white gold and diamond Mimirose necklace, £ 1,830. Mateo gold , turquoise and diamond Dot necklace, $ 375, and gold and diamond Mini Pavé Square necklace, $ 450. Repossi white gold and diamond Serti sur Vide pendant necklace, £ 3,830. Tiffany & Co gold T Smile pendant necklace, £ 1,075 © Jennifer Cheng

“Often these delicate pieces have sentimental meaning, so it’s something you want to keep on your own anyway, but there’s a styling and comfort factor as well,” she adds. “Women want something they can wear to a yoga class, or bike, or run around the playground with their children, but then also out for dinner with friends. They invest in ‘forever quality’, minimal pieces, because you can go to the gym in it and then get on with your day: a bit like a wedding ring, you do not have to worry about the precious metal taking it. ”

But nothing is sacrificed in terms of style. “There is no big statement; these pieces speak softly, ”she says. “It’s about a delicate necklace that catches the eye in a certain light, a subtle shape or a small diamond that hangs on the skin – you have to be very close to appreciate the full impact. It’s personal – almost mysterious – in the wear, that’s what makes these pieces special. ”

Some of Delfina Delettrez’s barely there jewels hide in the eye, like her teenager Two In One small diamond necklace, or the double pearl Piercing ring, where two pearls frame the bare finger – a beautiful accompaniment to a dance class, perhaps. But the designer also plays with discretion and retains some magical detail so that a piece slowly reveals its secret. A standout is the ultra-light, back-to-front “flexible hoop” Chain My Art earring, where a delicate gold chain hangs from a diamond “spot” while the big ticket item, a bold freshwater pearl, attaches it from behind.

For many, the features that hardly make jewelry there are appealing – the chic whip of Tiffany’s large T Smile pendants, or the gentle airiness of the single-emerald micro-bracelets and rings of LA-based Lizzie Mandler in collaboration with Fine Matter – also lends them to layering in a more attractive situation. “However, the nature of these pieces is so delicate that they still do not harden – only more expressive,” says Ejdrup.

Lizzie Mandler x Fine Matter gold and emerald floating bracelet, £ 274

Lizzie Mandler x Fine Matter gold and emerald floating bracelet, £ 274

Delfina Delettrez gold and freshwater pearl piercing ring, € 660

Delfina Delettrez gold and freshwater pearl piercing ring, € 660

Gaia Repossi Pink Gold and Diamond Bracelet, £ 2,915

Gaia Repossi Pink Gold and Diamond Bracelet, £ 2,915

Castellane’s victory Mimirose concept, which was launched in yellow and pink gold in 2019 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Dior Joaillerie, and has since been updated in white gold, sensed the moment. Ultra-fine chains with a small trio of diamonds sit at the neck or wrist along with the single-stone chain rings framed in the house’s twisted rice grain environment. Van Castellane regarded the collection as “the underwear of jewelery,” to rest like lace on the skin.

“Women want things to fall in love with and to which they are related – but also what really works in their lives,” says designer Gaia Repossi, a dedicated yoga practitioner in her standstill. “Historically, every decoration – from trunk feathers to decorated high-society jewels – has reflected something about the lifestyle and status of the person wearing it. Now women do not need heavy decoration to show strength. We do not necessarily want to look very decorated and adorned as we go about our day. Many of us find ourselves attracted to the simplest design in each category. It does not hide the person underneath it, it emphasizes it.

“Today, like the woman, everything is active,” she continues. “Think of all the beautiful sportswear designed to be worn all day long – you can wear your leggings for your yoga practice all day long, as I am today, in a khaki shade for work. Modern jewelry should have a similar functionality. It must be light and practical and move with you. ” Feel a need to “democratize the virtues of high jewelry, and create small, simple items” that work in almost every context – “just maybe not when you reach the secondary range of Ashtanga and, like me, you often have your feet behind your ears, ”she jokes – Repossi visited her famous weather Shrunk On Vacuum (“Set on the void”) diamonds, originally conceived as a reinvention of the classic solitaire with a hidden setting so that the stone “floats” on the skin.

Cerys wears Dior Joaillerie white gold and diamond Mimirose single earring, £ 1,290, matching bracelet (just seen), £ 1,690, gold and diamond Mimirose ring, £ 670, and matching bracelet (just seen), £ 1,600. Cassandra Goad white gold and diamond Isla necklace, £ 4,975. Mateo gold, turquoise and diamond Dot necklace, $ 375, gold and diamond Mini Pavé Square necklace, $ 450, and gold and diamond La Barre Pavé necklace, $ 375 (both discontinued).  Repossi white gold and diamond Serti Sur Vide pendant necklace, £ 3,830. Tiffany & Co gold T Smile pendant necklace, £ 1,075. Sophie Bille Brahe gold and diamond Grand L'Ocean double ring, £ 2,400
Cerys wears Dior Joaillerie white gold and diamond Mimirose single earring, £ 1,290, matching bracelet (just seen), £ 1,690, gold and diamond Mimirose ring, £ 670, and matching bracelet (just seen), £ 1,600. Cassandra Goad white gold and diamond Isla necklace, £ 4,975. Mateo gold, turquoise and diamond Dot necklace, $ 375, gold and diamond Mini Pavé Square necklace, $ 450, and gold and diamond La Barre Pavé necklace, $ 375 (both discontinued). Repossi white gold and diamond Serti Sur Vide pendant necklace, £ 3,830. Tiffany & Co gold T Smile pendant necklace, £ 1,075. Sophie Bille Brahe gold and diamond Grand L’Ocean double ring, £ 2,400 © Jennifer Cheng

The new chain bracelets and pendants have a graphic, curved pink or white gold bar, with a tiny pear-shaped diamond that cuts at the end like a drop of dew, “placed just beyond the wrist bone to extend it, and at the neck to to emphasize the beauty of the bone structure beneath it, “explains Repossi.” The skin flirts with the stone and the gold. When dismantled and bare, the stone is not suffocated; it is only there for you to stare at, but “It’s very discreet. It feels like it belongs to you alone.”

Copenhagen-based jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe find pure joy in the minimal piece that “becomes part of your body, something you wear so much that you feel naked without it,” she says. “I always wear my jewelery, even when I walk with my dog ​​in sweatpants on a Sunday morning.” Her designs push the boundaries of how little material can be used around stones, and “point out places on the body that are really delicate”. Her smallest gold necklaces – from the Diamond Simple to the mini Gouette de Diamant – is irresistible, as is the new heavenly theme Cloudy gold necklace, exclusively for MatchesFashion, with its ultra-light cable link chain and dainty diamond pendant. “The collarbone is the most beautiful place on a woman,” she says. “To me, a diamond is there, with nothing else, perfection.”

Gerbase recycled nylon / polyester Ela top, £ 162. Model, Cerys Davies at Elite London. Crew, Keva Legault. Hair, Mayuko Nakae using Digi and Wella products. Makeup, Nicola Brittin at Saint Luke Using Nars Cosmetics. Manicure, Sasha Goddard by Saint Luke. Assistant photographer, Keir Laird. Digital operator, Joe Hart. Stylis’ assistant, Kris Bergfeldt. Production, Diane Vincent at Saint Luke



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