There is much more comfort in epidemic comfort food


As Mary Poppins Sang In the 1964 picture, “Just a teaspoon of sugar gives the medicine down / in the most pleasurable way.” The song was inspired by the lyricist’s son being vaccinated with oral polio With sugar, And Crispy Cream followed Annie’s instructions this week, Offerings All Americans vaccinate a shiny donut for free for the rest of the year against Covid-19.

Donuts are not the only comfortable food that has grown during the epidemic. Sales of craft macaroni and cheese, a 84 years old Contributed to products that were left behind in consumer shifts to smaller, healthier brands Increase sales Craft Heinz last year

Vaccines are rare but treats abound. Booking slots for swimming in my local pool spread quickly as it prepared to reopen after a three-month lockdown but Cadbury’s cream eggs are still in piles for sale at the supermarket. I failed to resist the temptation.

Before the epidemic, food-chess teams were self-interested Path Towards making more virtuous products by removing artificial ingredients (craft) That’s what he did Including macaroni and cheese) and tout health benefits. Cadbury’s owner this week is Mandalay International Acquired The largest part of the UK manufacturer grenade made of carb killers, the best-selling protein bar.

They have second thoughts now. AG Bars, Scottish Drinks Half Sugar in Iran-Brew, its delicious orange soda from three years ago, replaces some with low-calorie sweets. This week, it has rolled Iran-Brew 1901, A spin-off based on an old recipe, which even contains More sugar Compared to the original version.

It’s understandable that people have maintained a lot of comfort over the past year, from mac and cheese to takeaway pizza. In the face of anxiety, loneliness and stress many need a dose of pleasure; As servants Wrote Inside Don Quixote, “With bread all sorrow is lessened”.

Comfort food is not a delusion – eating can really trigger feelings of relief and A study It was found that women with high stress gained weight as a result of “emotional eating” after which they tolerated stress more calmly. There is a reason we resort to restlessness when things get too much.

This dependence may fade somewhat as we survive the lockdown and are again allowed to enjoy variety and entertainment. Laboratory rats bound in small spaces tend to behave in one Less anxious Or “well-to-do comfort food” given in the way of frustration. Familiar words?

It will be hard to break the habits acquired at home for a few months. About half of the US millennium To survey The American Psychological Association said this month that they had given an unwanted weight to the epidemic, reporting an average weight of 16.5kg was a lot of donuts.

These are likely to decrease again depending on what makes the food comfortable – its taste, or what makes it junk. One Mondelez Report Sneakers around the world found that most of them ate for comfort in the epidemic and bought the “nostalgic snack brand from childhood”.

Creepy Cream followed Annie’s instructions, offering all Americans vaccinated against Covid-19 free shiny donuts at Timothy. Via Cleary / AFP Getty

This is one of the meanings of comfort food: recipes like pella, pasta or chicken soup can be healthy but especially satisfying due to their attachment to childhood and family reassurance. They provide comfort that extends beyond enjoyment to spiritual suffering.

However, rats in the laboratory do not eat high-fat lard and sucrose because it tastes just like their granny-making food. There is a visceral pleasure in making chocolate, ice cream and snacks interesting and fun.

It’s okay in moderation. A study of older adults in the United States found that there was some weight gain, including the comfort of nostalgic national food. Healthy Rather than being too thin, especially between the ages of 65 and over. If the epidemic does not come in any other packet, the epidemic will not leave any permanent damage.

There are two obstacles. One is that food and beverage companies have now learned that traditional therapeutic formulas can be effectively sold as somewhat relaxed food to combine nostalgia with effective liability. Craft now Experimental Reusable fiber-based cups for macaroni and cheese.

The second hurdle is that the epidemic could bind an inequality in already growing fitness and nutrition – in short, more likely to eat well-fed healthy food and exercise. Adidas chief executive Caspar Rusted told the Financial Times this week that the company wants to produce more. Hiking and outdoor gear This is the market address.

Palm Beach Post, “Adults can be called ‘comfortable food’ when they are under severe stress Wrote This pressure to use the first record of the phrase in 1966 will quickly bring relief to wealthy individuals who will still live in precarious areas and face financial uncertainty.

Mary Poppins is right: one teaspoon of sugar is delicious. But too many spoons are unhealthy but they help with anxiety. The amount of nutritional affection is not comfortable at all.

john.gapper@ft.com



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