Mon. Oct 18th, 2021

In 2018, when designer Riccardo Tisci was persuaded by Burberry’s newly installed CEO Marco Gobbetti to end his 12-year career at Givenchy and help him turn Burberry around, he made a total renewal of the brand started and swapped the romantic, typically English image that predecessor Christopher Bailey had cultivated for more than a decade for something sportier, more urban and international. This is a remake that was enthusiastically received by young Chinese buyer but received a more subdued response in Europe and the US, and Burberry’s share price remains behind larger competitors such as LVMH and Hermès.

Gobbetti is set to leaves Burberry by the end of the year for the smaller Italian leather product label Ferragamo, and Tisci currently has to go it alone while the company looks for a successor.

Is he committed to staying at Burberry without Gobbetti, with whom he is reportedly close and has previously worked with Givenchy? “I’m definitely going to stay,” he says in a video interview of his hotel in Milan, where he has just completed the recordings of Burberry’s Spring / Summer 2022 collection program. “In the future we will see.”

Mini dresses with abstract prints and exaggerated edge. . . © Burberry

. . . was presented with bodysuits in crystal net and tulle © Burberry

Since its runway debut in London three years ago, Tisci’s designs have referred a lot – and sometimes overwhelmed by – the house codes: the trench coat, the quilted jacket, the heritage search. Now Tisci says he wants to spray more of himself in the collections.

It was easy to find in the spring / summer collection he released online on Monday, which he dedicated to his mother Elmerinda, who passed away in August. At Givenchy, Tisci was known for his liberal use of black, for sexy evening wear and for including elements of wild animals such as deer. Among the detached trench coats and car coats in this collection were stretchy, flesh-colored trousers, black bustier tops under black jackets cut at the seams to reveal bare arms and collarbone, and black caps in the shape of brown ears (some of the models have also got strange flesh-colored ears that look like cows, and look like they were designed on social media).

Stretchable silhouettes with elastics in technical fabrics. . . © Burberry

. . . comes in black, white and neutral shades like Burberry beige © Burberry

As was the case elsewhere in Milan, not one plus-size model was cast. When Tisci was asked about it, he said he did not want to mark a block.

It felt modern and polished, but when we look at the collection, it was hard to understand where Burberry now stands in the luxurious landscape. Because Burberry is the only major luxury brand in the UK, it is the British fact that it has been largely stripped down over the past three years. This is what Bailey played so well with his Bloomsbury-inspired collections, which is why I suspect the brand’s refurbishment has not been as good in the US and Europe.

Line chart of Forward price-earnings multiple, 12-month (x) mixed calculations showing that Burberry's valuation is lower than its competitors

But Tisci says he is happy with the changes he has made to the £ 2.3bn brand since joining. ‘Burberry has become worldwide, and Burberry has become [gender] fluid, Burberry has become accessible, ”he says. ‘We had to educate people that Burberry is not [just] a winter company. . . now it’s much sexier, much lighter, Burberry [has come to offer] a real wardrobe. ”

Tisci included sporty, sporty shapes, deconstructing the Burberry rocket. . . © Burberry

. . . and The Rhombi presented, a new elliptical shoulder bag © Burberry

“I’m very happy that we’re now on the map of luxury fashion houses – that’s what we’re working for, ‘he continues, adding that he expects to return to a physical show next season. “Marco is going, it’s very sad, at the same time it’s good, and there’s a new energy.”

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